By Muara Bagdja
JAKARTA
(JP): Sebastian Gunawan's
fashion shows are always big events. His most recent, held at Hotel Mulia in
Central Jakarta last week, went one step further in cementing his image as one
of the country's finest designers.
It
was a grand presentation of 100 supremely beautiful gowns and precious jewelry
on a spectacular stage before a huge audience. It seemed to make a statement:
The era of Sebastian Gunawan is
here and now!
He
chose ""opulence"" as his theme and the entire collection
was fittingly grand, extravagant and sparkling.
His
collection was a stunning visual performance for the 1,500 guests -- the
largest number for any fashion show in Jakarta -- including his regular
customers, fans of his creations, fashion lovers and the media, who were
honored on this occasion to have the front seats normally reserved for VIPs.
Some
of the gowns were inspired by the Victorian era, with their long trains
sweeping the floor. Using luxurious materials, and inlaid with Swarovski
crystals, there were beautiful blouses and skirts. Colorful jewelry of
semiprecious stones were exotic adornments on the necks, wrists and slippers of
the models. It was a perfect, brilliantly organized scene on the Plexiglass
catwalk with a giant screen on each side of the expansive stage.
The
show started off with dresses in the New Look style of the 1940 and 1950s. This
style, originally created by Christian Dior, is renowned for its elegant cut,
with an accent on a slender waist. In Sebastian's hands, it comes in a soft,
slender gown flowing under the knees, or a feminine blouse with billowing
sleeves paired with a tight skirt.
For
him, it is also a lace blouse in ivory, combined with a tight skirt and
embroidered belt adorned with a gem brooch. The addition of a hat and a bag
makes the style so chic, beautiful and elegant. It immediately reminded the
audience of the legendary Grace Kelly, princess of Monaco.
It
was clear that Sebastian was not about to stick to the conventional evening
gown -- long and defined by large patterns. He showed that two-piece evening
wear can be a fashionable and stunning alternative, and his modernized retro
take on the style was a unique component of the special show.
Then
Sebastian took his collection into a palace for the occasion of an inaugural
dinner during the Victorian era. Here he presents his speciality: a
long gown with flamboyant patterns, complimenting his new touch of asymmetric
patterns.
A
black gown, for example, with a partly open shoulder. Interesting to see was
the bias cut at the hip as a new variation.
Expensive
materials enriched with decorative accessories remain Sebastian's mainstay.
While in his previous work he used a lot of beads, now it is crystals creating
their more sparkling effects.
The
show concluded with the presentation of three gorgeous wedding dresses.
European
style
Sebastian,
34, has been known from the outset of his career for decorative long gowns, his
signature mark as a designer. He made his debut show in the country in 1995,
and has continued to hold to his trademark design in producing gowns for the
label Votum and
his own collection, Sebastian Red Label, created for his boutique.
His
designs are distinctly western, with a pronounced European touch. His years of
study at Instituto Artistico Dell
Abbigliamento Marangoni in
Milan, and the presence of his Italian wife, Cristina Panarese, as
his faithful partner in creation, have greatly contributed to his taste and
style.
His
consistency to the design has stamped his specific European style as a genre of
its own in the country's fashion world over the past decade, particularly for
evening gowns, and earned him the title of the supreme ""ballgown
designer"" among many. Although grand dances are a rarity in the
capital, his creations have won a place in the heart of many women, evident by
the variety of Sebastian designs worn by those in the audience at the show.
Today,
fashion is a universal thing, and there are no partitions separating east and
west. Any woman, be she from the United States or Britain or Indonesia, can
wear a gown without relinquishing her own culture or contravening what is
acceptable in her culture.
The
desire to be beautiful, grand and elegant -- every woman's dream -- are the
sure fire reasons why Sebastian's latest collection will again be loved by his
fans. Another factor is his loyal reference to the style of aristocratic
dresses, making his creations suitable for the loftiest of occasions.
Although
beautiful, flowing ball gowns have become commonplace on local catwalks,
Sebastian always brings something new to his collection. His take on the New
Look brought something new and much needed to the often jaded fashion world.
Muara Bagdja is a
fashion writer based in Jakarta. Questions?
Contact him
at sundaypost@thejakartapost.com
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