Sunday, February 3, 2013

From Silk Road with Cheongsam

To mark the Lunar New Year, Sebastian Gunawan takes a reflective journey down the famous Silk Road, celebrating the rebirth of cheongsam.

In the hands of Sebastian, every single piece of clothing should created in most glamorous way — including the classic cheongsam outfit. Sebastian thinks cheongsam doesn’t always mean a body-hugging one-piece dress.

“These days, cheongsam is simply like a kebaya or baju kurung in our country. It is something that you can wear for any occasion — be it formal ceremonies, parties or even day wear.
“In the old days, we were used to cheongsams being a dress, with its unique cutting on the neck area and buttons, as well as very short sleeves. But in my 2013 collection, I show that we can always apply the cheongsam spirit in any form, including tops and inner wear,” explains Seba, the notable fashion designer’s nickname.

In his show “La Route de la Soie” (the Silk Road) Sebastian categorizes his collection into four sequences, which represent China, Japan, Uzbekistan and Paris.

The first represents early trip of the Silk Road, which has a strong influence from China.

Applying the cheongsam’s basic silhouette, Sebastian brings out maroon colored pieces in the first sequence’s items as a nod to the New Year’s signature color.

Sebastian reinterprets the cheongsam’s neck style by applying floral adornments and uses transparent material on the chest area.

“I still use the paisley motif and the cheongsam’s signature sleeve style, but I show some skin. There is also a black and green dress, and I style it with some cheongsam lines using modern cutting, without the classic button style.”

A sleeveless long-dress with a cheongsam neck is shown in a glamorous gold color, a stealer for an evening gala.

“I removed some [classic] elements and added some new ones,” said the 45-year-old.

To mark the Lunar New Year, Sebastian Gunawan takes a reflective journey down the famous Silk Road, celebrating the rebirth of cheongsam.

In the hands of Sebastian, every single piece of clothing should created in most glamorous way — including the classic cheongsam outfit.

Sebastian thinks cheongsam doesn’t always mean a body-hugging one-piece dress.

“These days, cheongsam is simply like a kebaya or baju kurung in our country. It is something that you can wear for any occasion — be it formal ceremonies, parties or even day wear.

“In the old days, we were used to cheongsams being a dress, with its unique cutting on the neck area and buttons, as well as very short sleeves. But in my 2013 collection, I show that we can always apply the cheongsam spirit in any form, including tops and inner wear,” explains Seba, the notable fashion designer’s nickname.

In his show “La Route de la Soie” (the Silk Road) Sebastian categorizes his collection into four sequences, which represent China, Japan, Uzbekistan and Paris.

The first represents early trip of the Silk Road, which has a strong influence from China.

Applying the cheongsam’s basic silhouette, Sebastian brings out maroon colored pieces in the first sequence’s items as a nod to the New Year’s signature color.

Sebastian reinterprets the cheongsam’s neck style by applying floral adornments and uses transparent material on the chest area.

“I still use the paisley motif and the cheongsam’s signature sleeve style, but I show some skin. There is also a black and green dress, and I style it with some cheongsam lines using modern cutting, without the classic button style.”

A sleeveless long-dress with a cheongsam neck is shown in a glamorous gold color, a stealer for an evening gala.

“I removed some [classic] elements and added some new ones,” said the 45-year-old.
The journey stops in Japan as Sebastian uses obi, a classic part of the kimono outfit, on items in the second sequence of the collection. In some pieces, Sebastian showcases simplicity with the obi as the main star.

A pleated long black dress with green-orange obi introduces the Japan-influenced cheongsam.

Other pieces include a sleeveless knee-length semi-formal dress, perfect for a summer day, and another sleeveless knee-length dress with the cheongsam-look replicated by the neck and button usage.

“I like to travel and when I’m traveling, I love to collect local materials. As for the Japanese sequence, I use some of my own vintage obi, so the price is quite high,” he says.

Sebastian gives creative touch with Uzbekistan woven materials.

“I went to Turkey last year and when I was in Bosphorus Strait, I was simply amazed by the uniqueness of their culture. The strait has Asian culture on the left and European culture on the right.

“I got the Uzbekistan’s material from that trip and I thought that it was suitable for this [Lunar New Year] collection,” explains Sebastian, adding that he applied small floral and green coral embellishments to the Uzbekistan woven material.

The Silk Road ends in Paris as the designer adds damask material to his collection.

 Damask, a common material for royal clothing, is a suitable fabric for Sebastian’s extravagant collection.

 “As you can see, damask has a solid motif and the cloth is quite heavy, but simply luxurious,” he says.

 Sebastian applies inspirational colors, motifs and cutting to his own cheongsam-influenced collection.

“It is definitely not a ready-to-wear collection, but also not pure couture. I want people to see this collection as inspirational, not just some pretty dresses that are nice to look at,” he says, adding that the 76 items in his new collection were made by hand at his workshop over a period of one and a half months.

— Photos by R. Berto Wedhatama

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