Hera Diani, The
Jakarta Post, Jakarta
What
is West and what is East, designer Biyan Wanaatmadja once
asked.
""Everybody
has different strengths and sensitivity. Why is it that Western designers can
create something Asian but not vice versa? We all wear the same kind of clothes
daily,"" he said.
Therefore,
if the latest collection of designer Sebastian Gunawan
accentuates a Spanish and Bohemian spirit rather than batik, for example, why
not? At
least local customers can pursue clothes with such style that is more
affordable than Dior's, for instance.
Along
with wife and fellow designer Cristina Panarese,
Sebastian presented a collection on Thursday that is elegant, clean-cut and
rich in detail.
The
fashion show at Hotel Mulia in Senayan,
Central Jakarta, was the first public presentation of the couple's second line
called SEBASTIAN'S.Sebastian
& Cristina, or also known as the red label.
The
first line, Sebastian Gunawan, is
a haute couture which specializes in evening and ball gowns.
This
second line is a collection of women's ready-to-wear outfits but more
luxurious. The theme was Eclectic Emotion.
""We
call it eclectic because in daily life, everything has blended in terms of
culture. There are no boundaries anymore, and we are free to choose.
""We
are inspired by so many cultural elements from all over the world. From East
European folklore, to Victorian style, Spanish and Bohemian, to Asian.
Cross-cultural is the theme from where we drew our inspiration,""
Sebastian said after the show.
The
theme was implied in funky yet elegant outfits -- a total of 85 outfits. They
range from a 1920s style of gown with hip line to high waisted
dress; mini skirt, long skirt and also full clock.
Poncho
blouse, jacket and matador pants also exist. Each item is combined with
another, such as the combination of a 20s kimono lingerie style outfit with a
Spanish fringe.
The
silhouettes are varied, from the fitted and figure accentuating to the wide,
more abstract volume like the flamenco dress.
Sebastian
and Cristina use a lot of brocades, saying that the fabric represents many
characteristics: feminine, sexy or light. Rough textured material is mixed with
softer ones in this collection. There are also chiffon, tulle, lace, crepe,
taffeta and leather.
The
Indonesian touch comes in material similar to ikat
(hand woven cloth) and natural colors like brown, red, beige and green.
The
collection is rich in details, with fringes being the most exploited accent,
created from different materials, like wooden beads and thread.
Wool
embroidery, ruffles and leather Art Deco style flowers also feature in some of
the outfits.
The
eclectic spirit also appears in accessories, with crystal, wood, paillette and
beads woven into long necklaces inspired by 1920s chandeliers.
There
are also corals and semi precious stones arranged on leather and suede.
Fashion
consultant Muara Bagdja said
the collection is very fresh, especially with the comeback of the mini skirt.
""This
collection is definitely lighter than Sebastian's first line. Yet it's still
elegant. Indonesian women like that kind of style, rather than funky or street
wear style because it also looks fancy,"" he said.
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