Five prominent
fashion designers collaborated with Cita Tenun
Indonesia to give a fresh, new look to tenun
woven fabric for the Jakarta Fashion and Food Festival.
The
designers — Sebastian Gunawan, , Priyo Oktaviano,
Denny Wirawan and Didi Budiardjo —
displayed 34 creations at the show, which was opened by an ultra-feminine
collection that used the plain woven cloth from the West Java town of Garut.
Eight
of Sebastian’s creations were inspired by a woman’s age of innocence, as shown
through the piece that used a burgundy lace material with the traditional
textile and its unique flower and leaf motifs.
A
green mini dress with a cute floral adornment around the neck area and flowery
embroidery on the bottom seam was complemented by a bandana with a similar
pattern and color.
Sebastian
then presented a simple knee-length dress with a top designed like a kebaya
traditional blouse, accentuating the mixture of old and new.
Another
creation came in a classic cut knee-length red and green dress, with
elbow-length sleeves; a graceful look for a gala dinner.
The
second collection on the catwalk was by , the man behind the rising Major Minor
ready-to-wear brand at London’s Harvey Nichols department store.
In
the show, he played with songket
fabrics embroidered with gold or silver threads from Central Lombok, giving the
creations his signature edgy and punk look.
“The
motifs are in pine and pineapple shapes, ornamented with belts of geometric
motifs. The basic color of my collection is black but the motifs are mostly
colorful in an effort to make it more marketable,” said Ari.
He
also used leather and applied origami-inspired pleats in his creations,
something he may have learned from Major Minor’s experience: that the
international market prefers simple cut atelier in friendly colors.
Nevertheless,
Ari did not forget to keep the authentic and beautiful colorful Indonesian
fabrics in his eight designs, which came in the forms of an oversized mini
dress; blouse and trousers; A-line and sleeveless mini dress and two elegant
knee-length dresses.
Balinese’s
endek
woven textiles were the focus of designer Priyo Oktaviano in
his Black Paradise collection, which was thick with the dark ambiance of
Eastern enchantment.
“Seventy
percent of the collection is in black, with the addition of grey and red. I use
endek with
its geometric motif for this ready-to-wear collection that strongly applies the
mix-and-match principle,” Priyo says.
Priyo, who
came up with six outfits for women and three for men, surprised the crowd when
a male model stepped out wearing a turban, a Middle East fashion-driven top
with tail and no pants; a strong essence of glam-rock meets Eastern ethnicity
feel emanated the show.
“Journey
from The Highest” was the theme of Denny Wiryawan’s Balijava
breathtaking collection that used Sobaki Tolaki
woven cloth from Konawe district and the Buton
woven fabric from Buton Muna
district — all from Southeast Sulawesi.
He
immediately won the audience’s heart with his eight exclusive creations.
Inspired
by Tibet, Denny translated this muse it into his collection through a
simple-cut long jacket, a knee-length inner dress and a fedora hat — all with
purple as a base color and other complementary palette choices.
Denny
was also in love with synthetic fur, as he applied it on the jackets and hats.
The
big gong was when two models walked in and posed together in epic long,
all-covering gowns and unique headpieces, which were likely inspired by Asian
traditional ateliers.
As
the closing collection, Didi Budiardjo
presented nine creations, inspired by various tribes in Sambas, the origin of
the woven cloths he used.
His
collection represented the Tionghoa, Dayak and
Malay tribes that inspired his designs.
Didi’s
began with simple two-piece looks; comprised of short-sleeve blouse and pants,
as well as long-sleeve blouse and pants.
Later,
Didi also
offered more wearable choices of two rather simple sleeveless long dresses, as
well as glamorous dresses, using a colorful palette of purple, blue, orange to
pink.
“In
Sambas, such clothing is known as lunggi —
and I’d like to popularize the term,” said Didi.
—
Photos by R. Berto
Wedhatama
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