The
classical Chinese dress, cheongsam, has seen a growing popularity in the
fashion scene, becoming a favorite of fashion lovers around the globe.
The
latest explorations of the cheongsam’s beauty came from three leading
Indonesian haute couturiers, Biyan Wanaatmadja,
Adrian Gan and
Sebastian Gunawan.
They explored the cheongsam’s beauty with their latest masterpieces to
celebrate the upcoming Chinese New year.
The
cheongsam creates an impression of simple elegance, modestly showing the
softness and beauty of the female form.
Cheongsam
provide fashion designers with various creative choices: the length of the
dress might be short, knee-length or floor-length, as well as the sleeves.
“It’s
an eastern legacy, just like kebaya. In terms of silhouette, it makes
women’s legs appear more slender.”
Cheongsam
were no longer something to be worn only on special occasions -- it’s more of
an international gown, he said.
“It
becomes one of the must-have items for socialites. A fashionista has
at least one piece of cheongsam,” Biyan
said.
Some
of cheongsam’s signature traits are the high neck and closed collar,
accentuating the formal look.
“In
the Chinese tradition, the higher the collar, the sexier the cheongsam. The
high neck brings a sexy attitude for the wearer,” says designer Adrian Gan, who
has worked in the fashion industry for more than 25 years.
Adrian
has long been famous for his trademark tight-fitting cheongsam.
Sebastian
Gunawan
shared a similar thought.
“There
are no limitations on cheongsam’s modifications. Cheongsam continually adapts
to its current situation. Now, it comes up in an expressive look,” said
Sebastian, who graduated from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising
in Los Angeles in 1988 and Italy’s Instituto Artistico
Dell’ Abbigliamento Marangoni.
“Cheongsam
is like kebaya,
which can be paired with modern stuff like mini-dresses and pants.”
While
the original cheongsam is relatively simple and does not use too much in the
way of details or accessories such as frills or ruffles, modern day designers
interpret cheongsam in their own respective styles.
Biyan,
Adrian Gan and
Sebastian Gunawan came
up with different ideas in designing cheongsam with modern style, which they
showed in three-day event called Appreciation Party, held at Hotel Mulia in Senayan,
South Jakarta. The event was also organized to welcome the celebration of
Chinese New year.
On
the first day, Biyan presented “Romance”, a theme on
the horizon, showcasing 36 sets of classical yet modern cheongsam made of
tulle, silk, lace, taffeta and jacquard.
He
translated the idea of the Chinese traditional female attire into
capes, jackets, mini pencil dresses and flowing evening gowns adorned with crystals
and complimented by stones, silver, pearls and bronze.
The
silhouette was classic and the pieces were mostly in soft colors like blue,
light green, beige and silver.
Adrian
Gan had
his turn on day two, where he showed his “Tales of the Unexpected” collection,
taking inspiration from the Chinese olden days, during the era of the Qing or
Manchu dynasty, China’s last dynasty which ruled from 1644 to 1912.
Instead
of designing fitted cheongsam, Adrian displayed his exquisite work in designing
cheongsam in the form of a number of boxy and baby-doll dresses set in
embroidered silk.
The
color palette was of bright hues, including red, green, yellow and orange. The
elaboration of the Manchurian culture and modern cut gave a chic yet fresh
feel.
He
then presented some long coats, which reminded us of the grandeur of kings and
queens of the era.
Adrian
also went all-out with the makeup, as the model’s faces were stark white, as if
they were wearing masks. Coupled with the blood-red lipstick, it gave a look
resembling a traditional Chinese woman’s small pout.
The
use of high headpieces and super-high-heeled and colorful clogs strengthened
the air of old Manchurian culture.
On
day three, it was Sebastian Gunawan — Seba, as
his friends call him — who came with his “Chinois
Express” collection.
He
brought basic cheongsam in many forms and shapes, and blended them with a
1950s-style elegant silhouette.
Sebastian
chose fabrics like duchess, brocade, lace, chiffon and tulle for his
collection, while he put embroidery, gemstones, faux fur and wire as the
applications. As for the color, he used silver, brown and baby pink.
The
shoulders were accentuated, giving an elegant and formal look, while the back
of the dress was open, revealing the stunning backs of the models. JP/Triwik Kurniasari
Source: The Beauty of the Orient
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